Growing Garlic in Pennsylvania and the Mid Atlantic States

When to plant: October, November, December and sometime in January - the main consideration to help you know when to plant is that garlic needs to grow roots before the freezing weather sets in. So if you plant about 4 to 6 weeks before the ground normally freezes, you will allow good root development, but not top growth prior to winter. In my experience Garlic should be planted in early fall. I always choose to start planting October 12 or Columbus Day. Mat Gambino, my garlic seed grower from New York, always started planting his Italian purple Columbus Day. It is easy for me to remember that date.

Depending on the size of the crop and the weather, I'll plant well into November. If the weather holds out and the ground is not frozen, you can plant into December. I have planted in January. It is best to get the garlic seed in to the ground early fall to give the garlic time to set it's root. The roots will grow deep into the fall and winter if you get a good rain and occasional snow melt.

Garlic likes a sunny area in your garden. Garlic also likes rich, well drained soil. I found that it doesn't do well in light or tight soils that lack organic matter. I started using leaves and straw as cover. This helps keep the soil moist.

• When garlic is planted around fruit and nut trees, it helps to repel moles.
• Garlic planted near rose, lettuce, and peas helps keep aphids away.
• If you have a bird problem, plant garlic throughout the garden and the birds will stay away.
• If you have a Japanese beetle, garlic grown around the edges will repel them.
• Plant where you planted potatoes the prior year, and garlic will form the available nitrogen and help reduce the insect problems.

What to plant: Garlic is known by the subspecies : (ophisocorodon) hardneck or top setting - top seed and (sativum) softneck. You can go to your local farmer's market and buy garlic to plant. Look for hard bulbs that are not cracking open, bruised or show spoilage. Check for insects and dryness. Garlic gloves, toes, or sections of the bulbs are what you plant.. Bigger the bulbs the better the garlic crop. Do not peel the cloves.

_{How to plant: Plant the cloves root bottom, the flat end down and point up. Depth of planting can be from 1 to 4 inches beneath the surface depending on the weather. In October-November 1 to 2 inches and in December 4 inches. The deeper you plant the garlic clove the more difficult harvest. I try to keep distant of 6 inches between cloves. It best for growth and weeding. I mulch with grass cuttings and chopped leaves and in my larger field I use straw.}

_{Growing: Keep garlic fields weed free for bigger and healthier bulbs. Separate garlic if two plants are growing to close or they will result in smaller bulbs. Keep well watered in spring when leaves appear. Do not allow the plants to dry out. Once the stalks (leaves) begin to dry, drop or turn brown, stop watering.}

_{Scapes Harvesting: This is the topset that is produced on hardneck garlic. They start appearing in late spring, late May early June. They should be cut off or pulled out. This will help the plant produce a larger bulb. Do not discard these topsets. They can be used as early garlic substitutes in salads, sauteed or used in stir-fry.}

_{Harvesting: Once the stalks start to dry, don't water them anymore. For October planting this will occur in late June or early July. Wait until over 60% of the plant is brown, then you are ready to harvest. You can start pulling the garlic if the soil is soft but if it is dry or hard use a garden fork. After you pull the garlic tie in bundles so you can hang it to dry. Then store it in a cool dry place - barn or garage where air can circulate around it with the stalks on.}